In 2001 I discovered the joy of food, changing my life forever. This was the year I became a boarder at Clayfield College. It must have been the combination of being a growing teenager with the knowledge that the provision of food in this place was limited to pre-determined times of day and the fact that food does indeed taste better in company – there were about a hundred of us in the Clayfield College Boarding House dining room each night. Two years later I arrived in Kuala Lumpur and discovered Malaysian street food. I had five years to develop a palette as well as a stomach for spicy oriental cuisine. Along the way I fell in love with two sambal (a chili based sauce) dishes: 1) sambal udang (prawn) and 2) sambal kangkung (water spinach). Even after leaving food-crazy KL for bland Perth my appetite has remained ferocious. Good-food-hunting is one of my favourite interests and I most definitely consider myself in the category of those who live to eat. Therefore, it was only essential that over my 23 days in India, a land known for its dynamic array of gastronomical offerings, that I kept a record of my every meal…
FOOD INDEX
aloo = potato
chai = mixed-spice tea
dahlfry = yellow lentils
lassi = yoghurt-based drink
rajma = red kidney bean curry
Day | June | Meal | Dishes & Drinks | Location |
1 | 3rd | Dinner | Stuffed Masala Dosa & Lime Juice | Somewhere in Karol Bagh |
2 | 4th | Breakfast | South Indian Buffet | Sunchi, Karol Bagh (recommended by Binu) |
Street Chai | Old Dehli Vendor (recommended by Binu) | |||
Lunch | Snacks on tour bus | En route Dehli to Agra | ||
Dinner | Chicken Biryani & Sweet Lassi | Hotel Royalé, Agra | ||
3 | 5th | Breakfast | Omelette, Roti, Aloo & Chai | Hotel Royalé, Agra |
Lunch | Rasmilai | GMB, Agra | ||
Dinner | Brinjal Curry with Naan & Papaya Lassi | Maya Hotel/Restaurant, Agra | ||
4 | 6th | Breakfast | Banana | |
Lunch | Potato & Spinach Curry with Chapati & Mango Lassi (recommended by Binu) | Fatepur Shukri | ||
Dinner | Butter Chicken & Aloo Gobi with Rice | Jaipur Inn rooftop | ||
5 | 7th | Breakfast | Toast with Jam & Chai | Jaipur Inn |
Lunch | Aloo Roti, Gulab Jamun, Rasmilai & Sweet Lassi (topped with syrup, ghee & pistachio) | LMB, Jaipur (recommended by Binu) | ||
Dinner | Cashewnut Curry (recommended by Binu) with Butter Naan | Somewhere on the main street in Jaipur | ||
6 | 8th | Breakfast | Potato Chop & Sweets from LMB | |
Lunch | I’m not ashamed to admit that I went to MacDonald’s & ordered a Maharaja Mac Meal. It was a cultural experience trying the Indian equivalent of a Big Mac. Back home the three bun pieces would have sandwiched two juicy beef patties but in India where cows are sacred chicken was the replacement meat. For non-vegetarian Indians mutton seemed popular, while fish was a rarity throughout my Dehli-Agra-Jaipur travels & completely nonexistent during my time in the mountains. At the Jaipur MacDonald’s I also had a bite of Efua’s Paneer Wrap which looked like a crumbed chicken fillet, had the texture of a fillet-o-fish & tasted like soft melting cottage cheese heaven. All in all, I enjoyed my Indian MacDonald’s experience & didn’t get sick from the lettuce in my Mac or the ice in my Sprite. | MacDonald’s, Jaipur | ||
Dinner | Chicken & Mutton Kebabs (recommended by Binu) & Okra Curry with Naan & Litchi Lassi. Honestly, although the ambience of this rooftop restaurant was by far the most elaborate of all the places we dined on the tour I was disappointed in the average-ness of the kebabs & the very overcooked okra. At least the Litchi Lassi was a pleasurable new experience & saviour for the last meal ever with this group. | |||
7 | 9th | Breakfast | Butter Roti & Chai | En route Jaipur to Dehli |
Lunch | No meal on bus to Dehli | |||
Dinner | Plain Roti | Himachal Bawan (waiting for bus to Shimla) | ||
8 | 10th | Breakfast | Aloo Payaz Paratha with Omelette & Coffee | En route Shimla to Kalpa |
Lunch | Vegetable Chowmein | En route Shimla to Kalpa | ||
Dinner | Mutton Noodles & Coffee | Hotel Rakpa Regency, Kalpa | ||
9 | 11th | Breakfast | Toast with Omelette & Chai | Hotel Rakpa Regency, Kalpa |
Lunch | Thali & Chai | En route Kalpa to Kaza | ||
Dinner | Too tired – straight to bed | Kaza Homestay | ||
10 | 12th | Breakfast | Paratha with Omelette & Chai | Kaza Homestay |
Lunch | Veg Momos. My first taste of this traditional Spitian dish left much to be desired. I found momos similar to Chinese dumplings, also steamed but made with a thicker dough. The peas in this particular batch seemed slightly undercooked, much unlike the general nature of Indian food. | En route Kaza to Kee | ||
Dinner | Mixed Vegetable Curry, Potato Curry, Fried Noodles, Chapati, Black English Tea & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery | ||
11 | 13th | Breakfast | Aloo Paratha & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | Dahlfry, Rajma & Rice. | Kee Monastery | ||
Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Vegetable Chowmein – not a fan of the Indian version. Pretty sure this gave me gas. | Kee Monastery | ||
12 | 14th | Breakfast | Scrambled Egg & Puri with Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | Dahlyfry, Mung Dahl & Chawal. | Kee Monastery | ||
Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Marsala Maggi Instant Noodles (requested by half of the Solar Bath group). My least enjoyable meal in India to date. | Kee Monastery | ||
13 | 15th | Breakfast | Cornflakes, Boiled Egg, Paratha with Seabuckthorn Jam & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | Dahlfry, Mung Dahl, Tomato & Onion Salad & Rice. | Kee Monastery | ||
Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Gourd, Potato & Soy with Steamed Bun & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery | ||
14 | 16th | Breakfast | Cornflakes, Boiled Egg, Paratha with Seabuckthorn Jam & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | Dahlfry with Rice. | Kee Monastery | ||
Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Last night’s leftovers with cauliflower – Spitian equivalent of meatloaf? | Kee Monastery | ||
15 | 17th | Breakfast | Cornflakes, Boiled Egg, Paratha with Seabuckthorn Jam & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Lunch | Boiled Potato & Egg. | 4 hour (8km) trek from Laduk to Komik | ||
Lemon ginger tea with biscuits. | Chief monk’s quarters, Komik Moastery | |||
Dinner | Aloo Momos with Coriander Curd & Spinach Soup. | Komik Homestay | ||
16 | 18th | Breakfast | Chapati & Mixed Fruit Jam. | Komik Homestay |
Lunch | Chapati & Mixed Fruit Jam. | Komik Homestay – missed today’s trek due to symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness. | ||
Dinner | Green Bean Curry with Chapati. | Demul Homestay | ||
17 | 19th | Breakfast | Yoghurt with Paratha & Black Tea. | Demul Homestay |
Lunch | Pulau (Rice with vegetables). | Demul Homestay | ||
Dinner | Aloo Momos with Vegetable Soup. | Demul Homestay | ||
18 | 20th | Breakfast | Yoghurt – our poor hostess thought it strange that I was fighting an upset tummy with so much yoghurt. At first she seemed reluctant to bring out more, probably because this meant milking the cow again. | Demul Homestay |
Lunch | Omelette & Paratha. | 4.5 hour trek from Demul to Lhalung | ||
Dinner | Pulau with Tomato & Onion Salad. | Kee Monastery | ||
19 | 21st | Breakfast | Cornflakes, Boiled Egg, Paratha with Seabuckthorn Jam & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | No appetite. | Kee Monastery | ||
Too hot for Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Maggi again 😦 | Kee Monastery | ||
20 | 22nd | Breakfast | Cornflakes & Black Chai. | Kee Monastery |
Seabuckthorn Juice | Solar Bath Site | |||
Lunch | Rajma & Dahlfry with Rice. | Kee Monastery | ||
Too hot for Chai & Biscuits | Solar Bath Site | |||
Dinner | Aloo Pata Gobi (Potato Cauliflower Cabbage) with Rice. | Kee Monastery | ||
21 | 23rd | Breakfast | Depart Kee for Manali at 6:50am without breakfast. | |
Lunch | Vegetable Fried Rice. | Chattru | ||
Dinner | Vegetable Fried Rice again. | stranded overnight at Chattru | ||
22 | 24th | Breakfast | Chapati with Jam & Butter & Coffee. | Chattru |
Lunch | Snacks on bus, including coal-cooked corn with lemon and salt from a roadside vendor. This was the first time I’d ever had corn like this – definitely prefer corn boiled and buttered. | En route to Manali | ||
Dinner | Too tired on bus. | En route Manali to Dehli | ||
23 | 25th | Breakfast | Snacks on bus. It’s amazing what the body can cope with when forced out of its comfort zone. | En route to Dehli |
Lunch | Veg Snack Wrap. | KFC New Dehli Metro Station | ||
Dinner | Paneer Cashewnut Curry, Butter & Garlic Naan, Mango & Sweet Lassi. Excellent farewell meal to India with Laura & Alvina! | Tadka (recommended by The Lonely Planet Rough Guide) |
REFLECTIONS
En route from Shimla to Kaza I assumed I was being taken for a foreign fool when a Spitian banana vendor refused to sell me bright yellow ones claiming they were too raw while the patchy brown ones were perfect to eat. So one day I managed to buy yellow ones much like ones I would have chosen in a supermarket in Perth to find that they were indeed pasty and hard. I waited for five days, in which time the remaining bananas had ripened slightly but no where near as edible as the almost too-ripe-looking patchy brown ones. Lessons learned: 1) bananas are not the same the world over and 2) local vendors are not always lying swindlers.
SUMMARY
Over my 23 days in India I had 19 cups of Chai, 7 Lassi’s (of which two were flavours I’d never come across before: papaya and litchi), 3 Naans, 4 Roti’s, 6 Chapati’s, 10 Paratha’s (mainly at breakfast), Dahlfry four days in a row and some form of Aloo 11 out of my total 23 days in the country. When it comes to world cuisines I consider myself very openminded, but after almost one full month of Indian meals I think I’ll give myself a good break between my next tasting of dahl and roti.